Cappadocia for Christian Visitors: History, Churches and Underground Cities

Cappadocia is one of the strangest and most beautiful landscapes in the world, and for Christian visitors it is also one of the richest. This volcanic region of central Turkey holds more than 600 rock-cut churches, monasteries carved into cliffs and deep underground cities. It was the home of the Cappadocian Fathers, and Cappadocians even appear in the Bible, in Acts 2:9 and 1 Peter 1:1.

I have been bringing my guests to Cappadocia for many years. Like every guide who works in the region, I have my own routes, my favorite caves and my favorite sunset viewpoints. In this article I want to give Christian visitors a complete orientation for a first trip: the history, the main sites, the practical side and how to combine Cappadocia with the rest of Christian Turkey.

Cappadocia is not only a Christian site. It is a landscape with thousands of years of history before and after the Christian centuries. However, Christian centuries are what visitors see most today. Let’s have a look.

Where Is Cappadocia?

Cappadocia is a region in central Anatolia. The area visitors mean today covers four provinces: Nevşehir, Kayseri, Aksaray and Niğde. The main bases are the small towns of Göreme, Ürgüp and Uçhisar, all in the heart of rock formations. The core area has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1985 as Göreme National Park and the Rock Sites of Cappadocia.

In Roman times Cappadocia was a kingdom and then, from AD 17, a Roman province of Cappadocia with its capital at Caesarea, today’s Kayseri. You can see the other Turkish sites on the same list in my article about all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Turkey.

How the Cappadocia Landscape Was Formed

Tall fairy chimneys of soft volcanic tuff in a valley of Cappadocia
Fairy Chimneys of Volcanic Tuff in Cappadocia

Ground of Cappadocia is volcanic. Mount Erciyes (3,917 meters) near Kayseri, Mount Hasan (3,253 meters) and Mount Melendiz erupted again and again over millions of years. Their thick layers of ash hardened into a soft stone called tuff. Wind, rain and frost then carved the tuff into deep valleys, cliffs and the famous fairy chimneys. We call them peri bacaları in Turkey.

The softness of tuff is the key to the Christian story of Cappadocia. It can be carved with simple iron tools. A small community could cut a whole church in a hillside, and a larger one could dig an underground city over the years. You can read more about the volcanoes and the landscape in my 10 interesting facts about Cappadocia.

Christian History of Cappadocia

Christianity reached Cappadocia in the first century, in the time of the apostles. At Pentecost in Jerusalem, the crowd that heard Apostle Peter included “the dwellers in Mesopotamia, and in Judaea, and Cappadocia” (Acts 2:9, KJV). It is easy to imagine some of them carrying the news home.

A few decades later, the First Letter of Peter was addressed “to the strangers scattered throughout Pontus, Galatia, Cappadocia, Asia, and Bithynia” (1 Peter 1:1, KJV). So there were Christian communities in Cappadocia already in the first century. According to the Turkish Ministry of Culture, hermits were living around Göreme in the second century.

In the fourth century, monastic life spread in the region under the teaching of Saint Basil. Monks and villagers carved homes, chapels and churches into the rock, and monastic life continued in Göreme until the 13th century. Christians lived in Cappadocia much longer. The last Cappadocian Greek Orthodox communities left for Greece only in the population exchange of 1923 and 1924.

The Cappadocian Fathers

Before we visit the churches, let’s meet the three men who made Cappadocia famous in history of Christianity. Basil the Great, his brother Gregory of Nyssa and their friend Gregory of Nazianzus lived in the fourth century, soon after the Roman Empire turned to Christianity. Their teaching shaped the doctrine of the Trinity for the whole church.

Saint Basil the Great, bishop of Caesarea in Cappadocia, painted by Theophanes the Greek
Saint Basil the Great by Theophanes the Greek

Saint Basil the Great (330 to 379) was born in Caesarea Mazaca, today’s Kayseri, and served as its bishop from 370. He wrote On the Holy Spirit, sermons on the six days of creation (the Hexaemeron) and about three hundred letters. His rules for monks became the base of Eastern monastic life, and even Saint Benedict pointed his monks to “the Rule of our Holy Father Basil.”

Basil also built a large complex just outside Caesarea too, later called the Basiliad. It had a poorhouse, a hospice and a hospital, and it is believed to be one of the earliest Christian hospitals for the poor. In Göreme, the New Church of Tokalı Kilise has a whole painted cycle on his life.

Gregory of Nyssa (about 335 to about 395) was Basil’s younger brother and became bishop of Nyssa in 372. He wrote the Great Catechism and On the Soul and the Resurrection, a dialogue with his dying sister Macrina. He took part in the First Council of Constantinople in 381, which adopted the formula he and Basil taught: one essence in three persons.

Gregory of Nazianzus (about 329 to 390) was Basil’s close friend. He served as archbishop of Constantinople in 380 and 381 and gave his famous Five Theological Orations there. The Orthodox Church calls only three men “the Theologian”: John the Apostle, Symeon the New Theologian and Gregory. He spent his last years in his family estate in southwest Cappadocia.

When you walk through Cappadocia today, you walk through their landscape: the towns they served and the plateau that shaped their thinking. I always remind my guests that the monks who painted these churches prayed with the creed these three men defended.

Göreme Open Air Museum

Göreme Open Air Museum is the most visited Christian site in Cappadocia and the best starting point. It sits just outside the town of Göreme in Nevşehir Province. It is former monastic complex where almost every rock holds a church, a chapel, a dining hall or living rooms. The site opened to visitors in 1967, and most of its paintings date from the 10th to the 12th centuries.

Christ Pantokrator fresco in a painted dome, a highlight of Cappadocia Christian history
Christ Pantokrator in a Painted Rock-Cut Dome

The main churches are the Apple Church (Elmalı Kilise), the Church of Saint Barbara and the Snake Church (Yılanlı Kilise), where Saint George and Saint Theodore fight the dragon. The Sandal Church (Çarıklı Kilise) takes its name from two footprints under the Ascension scene. Then there is the Dark Church, which deserves its own section below.

Do not miss the Buckle Church (Tokalı Kilise), the largest church in Göreme. It stands about 50 meters below the museum entrance, but it is part of the same site and the same ticket. Its older church has 10th-century paintings of the life of Christ, and the larger New Church adds the life of Saint Basil.

Allow at least two hours here, and wear comfortable shoes because there are rock stairs and uneven paths. Please follow the guards’ rules about photography inside the painted churches. I recommend my guests to come right at opening time, before the groups arrive. For opening hours and tickets, check the official page of the Ministry of Culture.

The Dark Church

Painted saints and evangelists on the walls and vaults of the Dark Church at Göreme Open Air Museum
Frescoes Inside the Dark Church at Göreme

The Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise) needs a separate ticket and it is worth every lira. It was carved in the late 11th or early 12th century as part of a monastery. It is called “dark” because only a small window in the narthex lets light in. Thanks to that darkness, its colors are still vivid almost nine hundred years later.

The paintings tell the story of Christ: the Annunciation, the Nativity, the Baptism, the Raising of Lazarus, the Transfiguration, the Entry into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the Betrayal, the Crucifixion, the Descent into Hell, the women at the empty tomb and the Ascension. The Hospitality of Abraham is painted here too. If you can only enter one rock-cut church in Cappadocia, make it the Dark Church.

Zelve Open Air Museum

Zelve lies a short way off the road from Göreme to Avanos, about 5 kilometers from Avanos. It is spread over three valleys full of fairy chimneys, cave houses, churches and monasteries. From the 9th to the 13th century it was one of the important Christian settlements and religious centers of Cappadocia. After that it lived on as a village, and people stayed in these rock houses until 1952.

Carved arches and pillars inside a rock-cut church at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia
Carved Pillars of a Rock-Cut Church at Zelve

The danger of falling rock finally moved the villagers to a new village nearby, and Zelve became an open-air museum in 1967. Its churches are simpler than painted churches of Göreme. The Fish Church (Balıklı Kilise) and the Grape Church (Üzümlü Kilise) go back to the time before the Iconoclast period of the 8th and 9th centuries, so you see simple paintings and crosses carved in relief instead of big painted cycles.

Zelve is one of my favorite sites in Cappadocia. It feels lived in rather than arranged for visitors.

Ihlara Valley

The Melendiz stream and a wooden stairway in the green Ihlara Valley canyon
The Melendiz Stream in the Ihlara Valley

The Ihlara Valley feels very different from Göreme and is just as rewarding. It is a canyon in Aksaray Province, on the western edge of Cappadocia. According to the Ministry of Culture, it is about 14 kilometers long and up to 120 meters deep. The Melendiz stream runs along its floor. From the 7th century, monks dug their homes and around fifty churches into its cliffs.

Walking in Ihlara is one of most peaceful experiences in Cappadocia. The path follows the stream under poplar trees, and the churches sit in the cliffs, reached by short climbs. At the Ihlara village end, a stairway of almost 400 steps takes you down into the canyon. Most visitors walk only a section of the valley.

The key churches are the Church under the Tree (Ağaçaltı Kilise), also called the Daniel Pantonassa Church, with paintings of Daniel among the lions, and the Snake Church, a different one from Göreme’s, with scenes of Hell. There is also the Hyacinth Church (Sümbüllü Kilise). The Church of Saint George (Kırkdamaltı) in Belisırma was painted between 1283 and 1295 for a lady named Tamar.

Belisırma has an old Greek name, Peristrema, and the whole valley is sometimes called the Peristrema Valley after it. The village lies about halfway between Ihlara and Selime. The walk I like best starts at the Selime end and follows the stream to Belisırma, where you can eat on wooden platforms built over the water. This is one of my favorite places in Turkey.

Ihlara is a good choice for visitors who want one deeper day instead of quick circuit. It combines well with Selime at the northwestern end of the valley, with the village of Güzelyurt or with one of the underground cities.

Underground Cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı

The underground cities of Cappadocia are one of the great wonders of ancient engineering. The Ministry of Culture estimates that the region has between 150 and 200 underground settlements of different sizes. They were carved downward into the tuff, with ventilation shafts, wells, kitchens, stables, churches and heavy stone doors that could be rolled shut from inside. Two of them are the most visited.

A round rolling stone door beside a narrow passage in an underground city of Cappadocia
Rolling Stone Door in an Underground City

Derinkuyu is the deepest one, about 85 meters. It has stables, cellars, dining halls, wine and oil presses, chapels and a church on its lowest level. A room on the second floor is believed to have been a missionary school. A 55-meter ventilation shaft also worked as a well. Some estimates say the city could shelter up to 20,000 people with their animals, though I am always a bit careful with the biggest numbers.

The story of its discovery is fun. In 1963 a local man was renovating his house, knocked through a wall and found a mysterious room behind it. Derinkuyu opened to visitors in 1965. Even today only about ten percent of it can be visited.

Kaymaklı is the tighter of the two. Its passages are lower, narrower and steeper than those of Derinkuyu, and four floors are open. There is a church with a nave and two apses on the second floor. Third floor has the kitchens, storage rooms and wine presses. Tunnels of 8 to 9 kilometers are said to connect Kaymaklı with Derinkuyu, but they are not part of the visit.

Who dug them? The first rooms may go back to the Phrygians in the 8th or 7th century BC. Christians later enlarged them into deep, many-level cities, especially during the Arab raids between the 8th and 12th centuries. Many people connect them with the Roman persecution of early Christians, but the clearest evidence comes from the Byzantine centuries.

Visiting an underground city means a lot of bending and walking through low passages, it is not for the seriously claustrophobic. Most visitors see one of them and often combine it with the Ihlara Valley for a full day in southern Cappadocia.

Less Visited Christian Sites in Cappadocia

Beyond the famous Göreme, Ihlara and Derinkuyu circuit, Cappadocia has dozens of other rock-cut Christian sites. They reward visitors who have extra time. These are my favorites.

Gümüşler Monastery (Eski Gümüşler) lies about 10 kilometers northeast of Niğde. It is a Byzantine rock-cut monastery with a large courtyard, a church, living rooms and an underground settlement, used until 1924. I find its paintings among the finest in the region. People come especially for the Virgin Mary who seems to smile, which is very unusual in Byzantine art.

Fresco of the Virgin and Child between two archangels in the rock-cut Gümüşler Monastery near Niğde
Virgin and Child Between Archangels at Gümüşler Monastery

Soğanlı Valley lies farther south, in the Yeşilhisar district of Kayseri Province, and it sees far fewer visitors than the Göreme area. Byzantine monks lived here for centuries. The Ministry of Culture counts about 50 rock churches and caves in the valley, and 8 of the churches are open to visitors. In style, most of their paintings belong to the 10th to 12th centuries.

Faded frescoes on the vault and apse of a rock-cut church in the Soğanlı Valley
Painted Vault of a Rock-Cut Church in Soğanlı

Valley splits into two branches at the village of Yukarı Soğanlı. In the northern branch, the Karabaş Church has paintings of the life of Christ, and its inscription dates its founding to 1060 or 1061. The Domed Church (Kubbeli Kilise) nearby was carved inside a single fairy chimney, and its outside was shaped like a domed, free-standing church. With no crowds, you can spend real time with the paintings. For me it is one of the most quietly rewarding days in Cappadocia.

Güzelyurt, whose old Greek name was Karbala, is the area most connected with Gregory of Nazianzus. His family estate had the same name. The town has rock-cut churches and the Monastery Valley (Manastır Vadisi), quieter than the main sites. Its old Church of Saint Gregory is used as a mosque today, called Kilise Camii.

Its earlier Turkish name was Gelveri. The town had a large Cappadocian Greek community until the population exchange of 1924, when these Orthodox families left for Greece. More than fifty churches and three underground cities are counted in and around it. Walking its streets, you get a good picture of what a Christian town of Cappadocia looked like.

Selime Cathedral, at the northwestern end of the Ihlara Valley, is one of the largest religious buildings in Cappadocia. It is a true cathedral carved into the rock, and it gives a sense of scale that the small Göreme churches cannot give.

Carved entrance of the rock-cut Selime Cathedral at the northwestern end of the Ihlara Valley
Entrance to the Selime Cathedral

Çavuşin Church is 2.5 kilometers from Göreme on the road to Avanos. It was carved in 964 or 965, after the visit of the Byzantine Emperor Nikephoros Phokas to Cappadocia. Its paintings show the emperor, his wife Theophano and other members of their family, something you rarely see in a rock-cut church. In October 2026 the Ministry of Culture lists it as closed for restoration, so check before you go.

By the way, both churches of Çavuşin are dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. The second one is much older and stands up in the old village, on the rock ridge above the modern houses. It is a large basilica carved into the cliff, usually dated to the 5th or early 6th century, older than most of what you see in Göreme. Part of it has collapsed and its paintings are barely visible now. It takes a short climb through the old village to reach to it.

Avanos, a few kilometers north of Çavuşin, sits on the Kızılırmak, the Red River. It is the longest river of Turkey and the Halys of ancient times. In Roman and Byzantine times Avanos, then called Venessa, had a large Christian population. The valleys between Avanos, Çavuşin and Göreme hide many smaller rock-cut churches, and they reward an unhurried walk among the fairy chimneys.

Kayseri, the City of Basil the Great

Kayseri, the old Caesarea Mazaca, was Basil’s own city. He was its bishop until his death in 379, and his Basiliad stood just outside the town. In his funeral speech for Basil, Gregory of Nazianzus told the listeners: “Go forth a little way from the city, and behold the new city.” He even asked why anyone should compare the walls of Babylon or the Pyramids with this work (Oration 43, 63).

The city itself deserves more attention from Christian travelers than it usually gets. The best place to meet with its early history is the Kayseri Archaeological Museum. Since 2019 the museum has been inside the restored Kayseri Castle, in the old center of the city.

Its collection starts in the Early Bronze Age and includes clay tablets from Kültepe, ancient Kanesh, just northeast of the city. Then come the Hittite, Phrygian, Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine pieces. The Roman and Byzantine grave stelae, sarcophagi and marble statues help you picture the real Cappadocia where Basil and the two Gregories lived.

Hot Air Balloon Flights Over Cappadocia

I include this section because my guests always ask about the balloons. They take off at sunrise and float over the rock formations for about an hour. The surreal landscape, the dawn light and the silence make it a remarkable experience. I wrote about it before in my article about balloon flights in Cappadocia.

Dozens of hot air balloons rising at sunrise over the valleys of Cappadocia
Balloons at Sunrise Over Cappadocia

For Christian visitors, a balloon flight is not part of the heritage circuit. Still, from the air you see how the valleys connect, how the monasteries were spread out and how the cave dwellings cluster along the cliffs. The balloon flight is theologically irrelevant and visually essential.

Please keep it in mind that the flights are run by licensed operators and depend completely on the weather. They are canceled in strong wind or rain, which happens more often in winter and early spring.

Planning Your Cappadocia Visit

How long to stay: three days is the minimum for a meaningful visit. Four or five days let you add the southern sites such as Soğanlı, a day in Kayseri and a full day in the Ihlara Valley. Anything less than three days will feel rushed.

When to go: April to June and September to October are the best months. July and August are hot at midday but pleasant in the mornings and evenings, and it is the busiest season. Winter is cold and often snowy. The cave churches look magical in snow, but the days are short and balloon flights are often canceled.

Göreme town among the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia on a clear day
Göreme Town Among the Fairy Chimneys

Where to stay: the cave hotels of Cappadocia, built into real cave dwellings, are one of special experiences of Turkey. They range from simple cave rooms to luxury hotels, mostly in Göreme, Uçhisar and Ürgüp. Book early, especially for Easter and the busy months.

Getting there: most visitors fly from Istanbul. Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport, northwest of Nevşehir, is the closer airport to Göreme. Kayseri Erkilet Airport is just north of Kayseri, farther away. Driving from Istanbul takes a long day, and from İzmir or Selçuk even longer.

Getting around: public transport between the sites is limited. Independent travelers usually rent a car. Walking between the Göreme sites is possible, but the distances add up.

A simple way to split three days:

  1. Göreme Open Air Museum with the Dark Church and the Buckle Church, then Zelve and the old village of Çavuşin.
  2. Derinkuyu or Kaymaklı underground city, then a walk in the Ihlara Valley and Selime Cathedral.
  3. Gümüşler Monastery or Güzelyurt and its Monastery Valley, and a quiet valley walk. Add a sunrise balloon flight on one morning if the weather allows.

What to combine it with: the classic combination is Istanbul and Cappadocia in one week. For Christian heritage travelers, the natural extension is the Aegean coast with Ephesus and the Seven Churches of Revelation, for about two weeks in total. My guide to Christian Turkey for first-time visitors explains how these regions fit together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Cappadocia mentioned in the Bible?

Yes, twice. Acts 2:9 lists people from Cappadocia among the crowd in Jerusalem at Pentecost, and 1 Peter 1:1 is addressed to the believers scattered in “Pontus, Galatia, Cappadocia, Asia, and Bithynia.” Both show that Cappadocia had contact with the Christian message in the first century.

Is Cappadocia Christian today?

Not anymore. Cappadocia was a Christian land for many centuries, and Cappadocian Greek Orthodox communities lived there until the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923 and 1924. Today the region is mostly Muslim, and its rock-cut churches are protected by the Turkish Ministry of Culture as museums and archaeological sites.

Where is Cappadocia today?

Cappadocia is in central Turkey. The region visitors mean today covers the provinces of Nevşehir, Kayseri, Aksaray and Niğde. The main tourist towns are Göreme, Ürgüp and Uçhisar in Nevşehir Province.

Can you fly from Istanbul to Cappadocia?

Yes. There are direct flights from Istanbul to Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport and to Kayseri Erkilet Airport. Nevşehir is closer to Göreme, and Kayseri is a larger city farther east. Most visitors fly in, because driving from Istanbul takes a full day.

Hire Biblical Tour Guide in Turkey

Cappadocia is a region where a knowledgable guide adds a lot. The rock-cut churches are full of details that come alive when someone explains them and stay invisible without context. The underground cities have layered histories that visitors easily miss. The volcanic geology and the way the monks settled the valleys also make much more sense with a story.

I’m a nationally licensed Turkish tour guide based in Kuşadası, nearby Ephesus. My day guiding is in Ephesus, İzmir and Pamukkale. My license is valid all over Turkey, so for Cappadocia I join my guests as their personal guide on a longer journey, often together with Istanbul or the Aegean coast.

You can see my guiding rates and guiding areas or write to me through my contact page. You can also email info@toursaroundturkey.com or call +90 544 640 35 70. I answer every message personally.

Cappadocia is one of the most rewarding places in Christian Turkey and one of the most unusual landscapes in the world. Come for the rock churches and stay for the landscape. I hope we will walk in the valleys of the Cappadocian Fathers together. You can always write to me with your questions about Cappadocia. See you soon, Hasan Gülday.

Written by

Hasan Gülday

Nationally licensed tour guide based in Kuşadası, guiding at Ephesus and across Türkiye since 2008. Hire me for a day of guiding — you arrange the travel, I bring the site to life.

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